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  • Talk to me about Twingo....

    So, as well as the RS4, I am now considering getting a RenaultSport Twingo as a daily so I can use the RS4 at weekends etc (and save the Worlds oil fields).

    don't know much about them - is there a big difference between the cup packed Twingos (i.e. do they have the Diff?) and non cup? Common faults? Anything else?

  • #2
    Hello mate, I'll try and help. First off no LSD on a Twingo, cupped or otherwise. My facelift 133 is cupped and I love the ride, no different to that of my cupped 250 other than its a wee but more fidgety but I put that down to it being a lighter car, handling is brilliant, pretty much any corner, any speed it's truly great. Depends on if your looking at facelift or pre! On the pre facelifts there were two models, cup and non cup, difference being springs and wheel size up from 16" to 17". On the facelifts there was only one model and the cup chassis was an option, road tax is slightly cheaper on facelifts too as the emissions is lower. Not sure on common faults as mines only 6 months old at the mo and all good so far. I do know there was an issue with lower ball joints wearing out quickly on the pre facelift. There's Gordini models to which was basically different trim to a regular 133 and leather interior. Hope this helps

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    • #3
      common faults are mostly lower arms on these ours has had 2 sets and its on a 60 plate


      IMAG0215 by adamgreenhouse1, on Flickr



      some of you might recognise the photograher!!!
      [email protected]

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      • #4
        Cheers gents. Am looking at pre-face lift models. Also looking at the Punto Arbarths as quite like the lools of those too.

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        • #5
          As already said, the lower arms have a habit of going on these. In terms of anything else there's not really anything else that pops up regularly.

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          • #6
            My Daughter has had an itermitant power steering / steering rack fault took ages to find but is currently in Renault being fixed other than that the car as been fantastic should add its a 2011 plate 1.2 gt .

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            • #7
              sends shivers down my spine the lower spec ones are dreadful.accelerator pedals well ratchet mechanism breaks alternators are common coupled with that issue above
              [email protected]

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              • #8
                Common issues are as follows (prices stated are from my own enquiries and research on Twingo133.net, they can vary):


                Control arm/Wishbone balljoint
                Check visually by applying full lock either side for rips/tears in the balljoint boots. Other than that you may hear a knock that can be felt through the pedals/steering. If you have the later type arms (AFAIK fitted to 2010>) then the balljoints can be individually purchased for around £40 each from this website --> http://twingo133.com/en/ . These are the same balljoints on OEM wishbones (manufactured by OCAP). DO NOT go to Renault for them, they will only sell you a whole wishbone for £200+ each.


                Steering rack Inner tie-rods
                Tthe inner ball joint tends to wear resulting in bumpsteer and tyre wear. sometimes identifiable by clicking when turning and/or by jacking up and pushing/pulling tyre with hands at 3-9 o'clock positions. They cost around £50-75 each depending on how friendly the parts guy at Renault is. The rod-ends are pretty durable though.


                Anti-roll bar Drop-links
                The biggest joke on the car in my opinion, bend easily and wear quickly even on low milage examples. You can easily see if they are bent through the 17" Cup wheels, and shake them for wear by accessing via full lock either side. Not a critical component if compromised but the price for replacements is an absolute joke - £70 EACH from Renault.


                Steering rack EPS system/Steering column/steering wheel
                Various sounds such as soft clunks and louder clunks as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7c7tKWKw-c . Possibly the nut that fixes the steering wheel to the column has loosened - easy DIY fix. Softer clunks can also be the steering wheel rotary switch or the UJ bolt slackening over time.

                The bigger issue is electrical popping/cracking/grinding noise inside cabin from under the cowling. This can sometime occur as a one off, never to return, if your lucky. However for the less fortunate it'll be permanent and results in compromised steering. Here's an example of the evil sound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6M2ve-gxZE .

                I can't say what causes this problem as I haven't researched EPS systems in-depth. However I can confirm that Twingo133.net is not good at identifying the cause of the issue. Most members simply got it fixed under warranty gaining a new rack. One member even had his rack repeatedly replaced, up to FOUR times, but like the others, with no answer as to why this major failure occurs. (Rant) Twingo133.net suffers from this a lot, most owners returning triumphantly to the forum declaring success with warranty replacement without even bothering to ask Renault what causes problems/failures in the first place (/rant). Anyway, a new EPS rack is £350-£400.


                Scuttle panel leak
                There is a torx screw that fastens the scuttle positioned in the centre of the scuttle panel, often this hasn't been torqued adequately from factory. Also the foam separator can perish over time. This results in a water leak that leads to corrosion of the following three:
                • No.1 Spark plug well (furthest away from timing belt), leading to rusted plug and potentially damaged pencil coil.
                • To a lesser degree it can affect No.2 plug and coil as well.
                • Damaged TPS due to water ingress.


                An instant sign of a water leak in the above areas will be dried water stains on the TPS and the top of the pencil coils. You my notice the other 2 or 3 coils are dusty prvided the owner hasn't clean the engine bay area.

                The issue of the rusty plug can be serious if left untreated. Depending on the degree of corrosion the plug can fragment upon removal dropping bits into the combustion chamber. This will be costly to fix (head off job). Be sure to check plug 1 and 2, - unplug connectors from pencil coil, pop off coil and look down with a torch. The degree of water damage depends on the incline the vehicle has been parked thus altering the angle upon which the water will fall. If the spark plug comes out without issue then replace all four with NGK PFR7Z-TG, they are circa £30-40 depending on the vendor. The pencil coils are manufactured by Beru for Renault and are typically £45.


                General wear and tear issues (relevant for higher milage Twingo RS's)
                Lower engine/gearbox mount, often called the dogbone mount, is known to go very soft over time. This results in gearshifting issues that can lead to gearbox problems if not dealt with in time. I recommend the Vibratechnics mount as an uprated alternative: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-Tw...-/380709750861 .
                The gearbox mount (located under battery tray) can wear prematurely depending on usage, the vibration will be noticeable however if left unchecked the bolt can shear leaving the box hanging on the subframe. Again I recommend Vibratechnics for a replacement.

                Look at the sills for incorrect jacking damage. Many idiots jack up incorrectly leading to bent sills that will rust over time. Have a good look underneath with a torch.

                Some cam cover bolts may weep oil. Not a big deal but worth noting.


                Additonal
                This following is an entirely subjective personal opinion based off personal experience of Cup and non-Cup suspension packs. Bear in mind I currently own a full fat Twingo 133 RS with Cup suspension pack and cosmetics i.e. 17" wheels with bluetooth headunit/dot matrix dash display - vehicle is currently at 30k miles. I have also driven a "normal" FF Twingo 133 RS with the softer "Sport" dampers and springs.

                The main difference between a 133 Cup and Full Fat model is the suspension i.e. dampers and springs, and 17" wheels. The weight difference is negligible, a paltry 13 odd KG via a lighter bench style rear seat and ditching air-con.

                Since your looking at a Twingo RS 133 as fun daily drive then give consideration to the fact that a Cup suspension pack may be more of a hindrance than a benefit. The standard "sport" suspension is much more suited to daily driving duties and arguably more suited to real world fast road conditions (which in the UK I'm referring to bad quality surfaces). Also the Twingo Cup suspension is considerably more expensive - Cup dampers are £150 each whereas the standard sport dampers are only £50 per corner. Are the Cup dampers worth £100 more each against standard dampers for real world usage and conditions? In my opinion... not a chance.
                The Cup springs are even more expensive than the Cup dampers (over £160 each last time I checked) - an oddity but worth noting since they do tend to snap on higher milage cars, so the price of Cup springs does not reflect in their quality either! The ride height on Cup suspension is only circa 5mm lower with only a "10% increase in damping and springrate" over the standard sport suspension (wish they'd give actual spring rate values and damping curves).

                So to summarise, don't get hung up over the Cup suspension pack when viewing. Rather, be aware of the damper condition based off milage and feel. If they haven't been replaced and it's a high milage car then the Cup suspension pack means nothing in my opinion. Personally once my Cup dampers have past their best I will be switching to the standard sport suspension. On a side note when I had a Clio 197 Cup my friend bought an FF 197, we swapped cars for a day and honestly I much preferred the suspension compliance of the FF.

                So, an ideal solution is to obtain a full fat model with Cup cosmetics ie 17" wheels, but with FF toys e.g. bluetooth kit, AC and so on.


                PS - Have you considered a Twingo GT? The 1.2 Turbo is worth looking into as an alternative. Great little car, ideal daily driver that's lots of fun drive to boot, more of a bargain than a 133 RS in my opinion. I would've bought one if my 133 RS hadn't have popped up by sheer luck at the right price.
                Last edited by Ams; 05-05-16, 15:53.

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                • #9
                  Hello, I currently own a Renault twingo RS Gordini and I can vouch for them they are so much fun!! I've done a few things to mine such as team dynamics pro race 1.2 in white to match and Bilstein B14 coilovers to complement the already amazing handling, I've done mainly visual mods but the twingo is just such a fun car and I've had mine a year an not had any problems with it, just watch out for belt changes

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                  • #10
                    Great example of the twingo

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